Trinity College
Don your gown and dust off that tome on elocution, for this calm and cordial retreat from the bustle of contemporary Dublin is not just Ireland's most prestigious university (and the home of the blockbuster hit that is the Book of Kells) but a throwback to those far-off days when a university education was the preserve of a very small elite who spoke passionately of the importance of philosophy and the need for empire.
Dublin Tourism - O'Connell Street
Dublin Tourism Centre
This main Dublin Tourism Centre has brochures, mini-guides, maps, a bookshop, cafe, bureau de change and car rental desk.
British Embassy
Failte Ireland (Irish Tourist Board)
Dublin Castle
The stronghold of British power for 700 years is principally an 18th-century creation that is more hotch-potch palace than turreted castle. Only the Record Tower survives from the original Anglo-Norman fortress built in the 13th century on Viking foundations. The most fascinating part of the castle is underground - a chunk of the old city walls and moat.
Morgan Bar
The Morgan bar, in the swisho environs of the Morgan Hotel, is the place of the moment. Urban types gather round the minimalist interior or chill out on brown leather sofas, nibbling bar snacks and quaffing pints of the best. If a more upscale tipple is preferred, a selection of fine wines and exotic Morgan Mai Thais are also on the drinks menu.
James Joyce Centre
More study centre than museum, casual Joyceans may be disappointed by the small cache of Joyce-related items in this beautifully restored Georgian home. But the centre has more than just texts and papers for Joycean scholars; there's a regular programme of events, films and lectures, walking tours of Joyce's haunts, photographs, relics and fascinating facts.
Aberdeen Lodge
Not only is this one of Dublin's absolutely best guesthouses, but it's a carefully guarded secret, known only to those lucky enough to dare stay a short train ride from the city centre. Their reward is a luxurious house with a level of personalised service as good as any you'll find in any of the city's top hotels.
Mater Misericordiae Hospital
Barnacles Temple Bar House
Bright and spacious, in the heart of Temple Bar, this hostel is immaculately clean, has nicely laid-out dorms and doubles with private bathrooms and that rare beast - in-room storage. Ideally located for anyone looking to be right in the middle of the action, this friendly hostel is almost always busy.
Australian Embassy
St Patrick's Cathedral
Situated on the very spot St Paddy himself rolled up his sleeves and dunked the heathen Irish into a well, this is one of Dublin's earliest Christian sites and hallowed ground. Although a church stood on the site from the 5th century, the present building dates from 1191, and several major alterations have been made since then.
Kilmainham Gaol
One of Dublin's most sobering sights, Kilmainham Gaol oozes centuries of pain, oppression and suffering from its decrepit limestone hulk. The scene of countless emotional episodes along Ireland's rocky road to independence, the jail was home to many of the country's political heroes, martyrs and villains.
Eden
The epitome of Temple Bar chic, Eden's minimalist look - designed to look something like the interior of an empty swimming pool - and contemporary European menu has earned plenty of kudos over the last decade. The menu, which offers dishes as diverse as braised lamb shank with Moroccan spices and organic beef and Guinness stew, is generally excellent, but we enjoy it best at brunch on the much-sought-after ground-floor terrace.
Natural History Museum
Dusty, weird and utterly compelling, this window into Victorian times has barely changed since Scottish explorer Dr David Livingstone opened it in 1857. The creaking interior gives way to an overwhelming display of stuffed animals and mounted heads, crammed in like something from a Hitchcock movie. Of the two million species on display in the museum, many are long extinct.
US Embassy
Guinness Storehouse & St James' Gate Brewery
Like a Disneyland for beer lovers, the Guinness Storehouse is an all-singing, all-dancing extravaganza combining sophisticated exhibits with more than a pintful of marketing hype. The best part of the Storehouse tour is the rooftop Gravity Bar, where you can kick back with a pint of the black stuff.
Four Seasons
The muscular, no-holds-barred style of American corporate inn-keeping is in full force at this huge hotel that has sought to raise the hospitality bar. Its OTT look - lots of marble effect, fancy chandeliers and carefully pruned floral arrangements - has its critics, who think it garish - but there's no denying the sheer quality of the place. For many, this is the best hotel in town.
National Museum - Archaeology & History
The National Museum is home to a fabulous bounty of Bronze Age gold, Iron Age Celtic metalwork, Viking artefacts and impressive ancient Egyptian relics. The Palladian-style Victorian building is a fine setting for the collection, with its 18m (62ft) domed rotunda, marble columns and mosaic floors.
Designyard
A high-end, craft-as-art shop where everything you see - glass, batik, sculpture, painting - is one-off and handmade in Ireland. It also showcases contemporary jewellery stock from young international designers.
Good World
A hands-down winner of our best-Chinese-restaurant competition, the Good World has two menus, but to really get the most of this terrific spot, steer well clear of the Western menu and its unimaginative dishes. With listings in two languages, the Chinese menu is literally packed with dishes and delicacies that keep us coming back for more.
Brown Thomas
Soak up the Jo Malone-laden rarefied atmosphere of Dublin's most exclusive store, where presentation is virtually artistic. Here you'll find fantastic cosmetics, shoes to die for, exotic homewares and a host of Irish and international fashion labels such as Balenciaga, Stella McCartney, Lainey Keogh and Philip Treacy. The 3rd-floor Bottom Drawer outlet stocks the finest Irish linen you'll find anywhere.
Rhodes D7
The northside got its first real taste of trendy dining when celebrity TV chef Gary Rhodes decided that this was the spot to open his first Irish venture. While you won't spot the Tintin-haired one sweating it out in the kitchen of this big, brash restaurant, he did devise the menu and his British staples - cheddar rarebit, roast cod with lobster champ - have been given an Irish twist, which really just means that the ingredients are local.
Number 31
Easily the most distinctive boutique hotel in town, Number 31 could be a set from the Zeitgeist film The Ice Storm. The coach house and former home of modernist architect Sam Stephenson feels like a real 1960s home, with its groovy sunken lounge, mirrored bar and floor-to-ceiling windows.
Dublin Tourism - Baggot St Bridge
International Bar
The upstairs room above this pub hosts three comedy nights a week. Monday night is Comedy Improv, the best of the lot, where the audience throws up subjects for the established comedians to work with. Wednesday night is Comedy Cellar, Ardal O'Hanlon's original creation, where blossoming talent is given the chance to find out if their material is up to scratch, and Thursday night is the International Comedy Club, hosted by Aidan Bishop.
Morrison Hotel
It's named after a Doors album, but there's no hint of 70s slacker cool about this place, one of the city's trendiest hotels and a safe bet for a little celebrity-spotting. The loosely Oriental style rooms are bright, if a little compact and feature Egyptian cotton linen, CD players and ISDN lines.
Gulliver Info Res
Gulliver Info Res offers phone bookings and reservations via a computerised service.
Ely
Wines from around Europe are what this sophisticated little joint does best - the wine list includes 70 wines by the glass. There's also some very decent rustic cooking to be savoured, like homemade burgers, bangers and mash, and pasta dishes, all of which are prepared with free-range produce from the owner's organic family farm in County Clare.
Cathach Books
Our favourite bookshop in the city stocks a rich and remarkable collection of Irish-interest books, with a particular emphasis on 20th-century literature, including some rare first editions by the big guns: Joyce, Yeats, Beckett and Wilde.
L'Ecrivain
A firm favourite with the bulk of the city's foodies, L'Ecrivain trundles along with just one Michelin star to its name, but the plaudits just keep coming. Head chef Derry Clarke is considered a gourmet god for the exquisite simplicity of his creations, which put the emphasis on flavour and the use of the best local ingredients - all given the French once over and turned into something approaching divine dining.
Sheridans Cheesemongers
If heaven were a cheese shop, this would be it. Wooden shelves are laden with rounds of farmhouse cheeses, sourced from around the country by Kevin and Seamus Sheridan, who have almost single-handedly revived cheese-making in Ireland. You can taste any one of the 60 cheeses on display and pick up some wild Irish salmon, Italian pastas and olives while you're at it.
Long Hall
Luxuriating in full Victorian splendour, this is one of the city's most beautiful and best-loved pubs. Check out the ornate carvings in the woodwork behind the bar and the elegant chandeliers. The bartenders are experts at their craft, an increasingly rare attribute in Dublin these days.
Waterloo House
A short walk from St Stephen's Green, this lovely guesthouse is spread over two ivy-clad Georgian houses. Rooms are tastefully decorated with high quality furnishings in authentic, Farrow & Ball Georgian colours and all have cable TV and kettles.
Devitt's
Devitt's - aka the Cussak Stand - is one of the favourite places for the city's talented musicians to display their wares, with sessions as good as any you'll hear in the city centre. Highly recommended.
Canadian Embassy
Chief O'Neill's Hotel
This thoroughly modern hotel is a master class in contemporary design and its bold statement of intent is evident throughout. Some will argue that the bedrooms are devoid of warmth, but we loved the sharp, decisive lines, over-abundance of glasswork and all-round futuristic look that makes the rooms seem like the captain's quarters on the Enterprise .
Shelbourne
The grand dame of Dublin hotels is the historic and magnificent Shelbourne, founded in 1824 and still one of the city's best addresses. It has long been a byword for restrained opulence and sophisticated luxury, from the best of the suites right down to the old-style barber shop in the basement.
Smock
This tiny designer shop sells quirky (and very exclusive) international women's-wear from investment labels Easton Pearson, Veronique Branquinho and AF Vandevorft, as well as a small range of interesting jewellery. Rumour has it that it might be moving to Drury St, closer to the action.
Gruel
Noisy, cosy and beloved by its ever-lengthening list of devotees, Gruel is one of the best dishes in town, a deli-cum-rustic trattoria that has them queuing out the door. They come for the super-filling, taste-defying, lunchtime roast-in-a-roll - a rotating list of slow roast organic meats stuffed into a bap and flavoured with home-made relishes - and the exceptional evening menu, where pasta, fish and chicken are given the exotic once-over. It doesn't accept bookings, so just go, queue and share elbow space with the table behind you; it's worth every effort.
Cornucopia
Cornucopia serves up hearty vegetarian and vegan dishes that change daily. Dine in a relaxed, country-kitchen atmosphere with hot meals that include soups, casseroles and quiches, all served with salad. There's a vegetarian cooked breakfast as an alternative to porridge, muesli and French toast.
Café Bar Deli
With two branches in the south city centre, the folks behind Café Bardeli have created a winning formula: great crispy pizzas with imaginative toppings such as spicy lamb and tzatziki, fresh home-made pastas or salads like broccoli, feta and chickpea, all served within the stylish environs of what were once branches of Dublin's most beloved café, Bewley's. No reservations allowed, so prepare to wait on a busy night.
Barry Doyle Design Jewellers
Goldsmith Barry Doyle's upstairs shop is one of the best of its kind in Dublin. The handmade jewellery - using white gold, silver, and some truly gorgeous precious and semiprecious stones - is exceptional in its beauty and simplicity. Most of the pieces have Afro-Celtic influences.
National Gallery
A stunning Caravaggio and a whole room full of Ireland's pre-eminent artist, Jack B Yeats, are just a couple of stand-out highlights from this fine collection, amassed by the state since 1854. Its original collection has grown, mainly through bequests, to around 12,500 artworks, including oils, watercolours, drawings, paints and sculptures.
Isaacs Hostel
The northside's best hostel - hell, for atmosphere alone it's the best in town - is in a 200-year-old wine vault just around the corner from the main bus station. Friendly, secure and well stocked, it generates consistently good reviews from backpackers and other budget travellers.
Brazen Head
Reputed to be Dublin's oldest pub, the Brazen Head was founded in 1198, but the present building is a young thing, dating from only 1668. It's popular with foreign students, tourists and some grizzly locals - Robert Emmet was a regular, while in Ulysses, James Joyce reckoned 'you get a decent enough do in the Brazen Head'.
La Stampa Hotel
These days it's all about boutique chic, and this marvellously atmospheric hotel on trendy Dawson St has got it just right. Up two flights of steep stairs are 22 lovely Asian-influenced white rooms, oriental rattan furniture, exotic velvet throws, TV, air-con and minibar.
Glasnevin
Glasnevin's two major historic sights adjoin each other just south of the River Tolka. The gorgeous Botanic Gardens features a series of spectacular curvilinear glasshouses built between 1843-69. South of the gardens, Prospect Cemetery is the largest in Ireland and home to endless fascinating and macabre secrets.